The Rhone Rangers

The other night we were dining at the Chophouse (where else?), and we enjoyed a wine that had been recommended by the enchanting Janine. It was Stolpman Hilltops Syrah, 2006. We love Syrahs, old world and new, and we were not disappointed by this recommendation. Big bodied, full flavored, rich, easy drinking, fruit-forward California Syrah. Think of Jane Russell as a bottle of red wine. Soft, luscious, a little bit naughty.

Janine is great about finding these California cult wines, and we have had the good fortune to drink some wonderful stuff over the past couple years, including Saxum (Wine Spectator's winery of the year last year) and Sine Qua Non. But then what to do when we're not at the Chophouse, and don't have her recommendations upon which to rely? Here is a suggestion: a bunch of California wineries have formed an organization of sorts which is devoted to the cultivation of Rhone style wines. Rhones of course are fabulous: Southern Rhones, typically blends of syrah and grenache, are exemplified by the famous Chateauneuf-de-Pape. Northern Rhones are all, or almost all Syrah -- Hermitage and Cote-Rotie being the two best examples. In either case, they are really big-bodied reds, great steak wines, and because for some reason they aren't as famous or fashionable as the big Bordeaux, they are much more reasonably priced.

Anyway, these California vintners, who loved Rhones, were making wines that sought to mimic the characteristics of the original Rhones. The big difference is the fruit -- the Cali wines being much fruitier, and the French originals being much earthier. Also, the high fruit content often raises the alcohol content a percent or two. But still, these are very similar to their French counterparts, and are great full bodied reds. The California growers who banded together called themselves the Rhone Rangers, and I have found all of them to make very good wines. Some are more well known, and not unreasonably priced: Rosenblum, J. Lohr, Qupe (John's recommendation), Ridge (another one of John's) and Columbia Crest ( I think they're actually Washington). Others I've had at the Chophouse include Bonny Doon, and this latest - Stolpman.

The real problem is that there are thousands of great wines, from all over the world. So how do you keep up? And when is there time to drink all these great wines? I talked about Syrah and never once mentioned the Australian wines, which for some reason are called Shiraz, like maybe the spelling is different when you're upside down. But actually, Shiraz was our original entry point into the whole Rhone craze, because it's so reasonably priced. (As long as we're on the topic, try Boarding Pass Shiraz, which is mostly shiraz (syrah), but with a touch of viognier, a white grape, one which is often blended into Cote-Rotie.)

So next time you have a steak on the grill, or may a butterflied leg of lamb, or even just barbequed pork, try one of the Rhone Rangers. I expect you won't be disappointed.